After more than two weeks, you’d think we’d do better than this

Right up front, we admit that this post is exceedingly beige.  Not up to our usual exciting standards, because not much excitement has come our way since the last post.  No submarines.  The fire is out.  We eluded any Russians who might have followed us from Cashmere what seems like months ago.  Dana did make progress on her blanket project and Doug did manage to get a photo of Pleasant Harbor without losing the replacement drone, however, both of which are medium-sized deals to us but pretty meaningless to anyone else.

That storm system that brought cold and drizzle to us last post also dumped snow on the mountains, which requires an updated photo of Mt. Baker.

Carnival Luminosa—on her way to Alaska—met us under Mt. Rainier, which also was blessed with early snowfall.

This time Elliott Bay Marina wasn’t too bad.  Better weather helped.  Plus, we discovered that an easy mile hike would take us to the restaurants and shops dotting the Magnolia neighborhood.  Nice.

Celebrity EDGE also loaded up for yet another trip north, which required a quick drone flight.  Frankly, a week jammed onto a floating casino/buffet with 3,000 strangers just sounds awful.  To paraphrase Jason at the party where Gib did not sleep with the sure thing, however, the people down there probably think they’re having a good time.

Back to Gig Harbor for Labor Day, an idea that about a zillion other people shared.  The place was packed.

Given the nice weather we were able to walk around a bit more than last time.  Nothing too crazy to see, but we did stumble upon a statue we previously missed.  Although it’s called “The Fisherman,” the plaque is silent on whether someone gave the man the fish or taught him to catch it himself.

Speaking of fish, here’s a hatchery of sorts.  They load zillions of salmon eggs into those drums, then release the babies.  It doesn’t look very scientific but apparently it works.

Anyway, there we are down at the end of Arabella’s dock.

And here we are in the stream of boats leaving before the tide bottomed out on Labor Day.

The short trip to Tacoma wound through what we must assume is an amazing fishing spot.  Boats littered the area like those lobster pots off the coast of Maine.  Grrrr.

Speaking of boats, here’s SS Cape Intrepid, currently operated by Military Sealift Command in reserve status.  None of that is very interesting, but we include it because the ship was laid down as SS Arizona and we’re from Arizona, which is a mighty fine coincidence.

Then into the Foss Waterway, where ugly tanks welcomed us.

We’ve traveled many waterways.  The Trent-Severn Waterway is awesome.  The Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway saves mariners from the ocean hazards.  The Great Lakes Waterway allowed us to visit Tom and Deb and Skeeter in Hancock.  The Thea Foss Waterway is none of that.  It’s like a mile-long industrial finger pointed at the Tacoma Dome, with nothing but boats along the shore.

A couple of notes.  First, until recently this little cul-de-sac was super polluted.  Second, Thea Foss was a Norwegian immigrant whose husband moved her to Tacoma, where—in 1889–she started what became the largest tugboat company on the west coast.  History is silent on whether she enjoyed lutefisk tacos like those sold in Poulsbo, but Dock Street Marina at the end of her waterway is nice enough.

Right along the shore by the marina sits the world famous Museum of Glass.  The upside-down funnel thing that looks like some sort of chimney in fact is some sort of chimney.  Because inside it we found a state-of-the-art hot shop with stadium seating.  Now that’s cool.

Not surprisingly, the Museum of Glass is full of glass art.

This is The Salmon School, with hand-blown fish created by artists from multiple countries—yes, including Norway—added to those from the US.

There’s even glass in the pool outside.

To get from the marina to the delicious sushi restaurant and other things you cross the Chihuly Bridge, which—you guessed it—is decorated with Chihuly glass.  As we noted last post, Dale Chihuly is a big deal in these parts.

Three weeks ago we’d never heard of Aplets and Cotlets, which means we’d never heard of their battle with Almond Roca over who should be Washington State’s Official Candy.  Bizarrely, we’ve now been to the home of both combatants.

Speaking of the Tacoma Dome, here it is, looking a lot like that dome we thought was a sand pile in Marquette.  Someone going by the name “Pink”—who apparently is a singer of some sort—was performing there.

America’s Car Museum is across the street from the Dome.  Meh.  The coolest one was half buried outside in the back.

The last of the museum trifecta was the Washington State History Museum.  Surprisingly, it’s way short on Mt. Saint Helens info, despite the fact that the eruption killed 57 people.  Not surprisingly, it’s also way short on Ted Bundy and Gary Ridgway info, despite the fact that between them they killed more people than did the volcano.  There’s still a bunch of interesting stuff though.  For example, who knew that Washington was the Pennsylvania of the west?  Also who thought that would be a great marketing strategy?

Woody Guthrie wrote songs about the plight of the downtrodden, like dust bowl refugees and miners who were put upon by the evil bosses of the day.  But it turns out Woody also needed money, which led him to write songs extolling the virtues of the Bonneville and Grand Coulee dams despite the human and environmental toll on the Columbia River Valley.  The Bonneville Power Administration paid him $10 per song to “make people in the Pacific Northwest appreciate the work of the BPA and value the concept of public power.”  To our knowledge, he never wrote songs glorifying Pennsylvania dams.

Washington claims the Dick and Jane books, by noting that the author—Elizabeth Montgomery—“was one of several authors . . . who moved to Washington for creative inspiration.”  The most interesting thing about this isn’t the tenuous connection, or the notion that “see Dick run” is particularly creative; the most interesting thing is that Tabitha’s mother wrote books.

All along we thought the Schoens started U-Haul in Phoenix, home of its current headquarters.  The museum says it was Washington.  The U-Haul website suggests the first trailer was offered in Portland.  Hmmm.  Everyone seems to agree, however, that in 1907 two teenagers started UPS in a Seattle basement.

Maybe the museum skips the serial killers, but there’s a pretty big exhibit on Boeing, which also legitimately started in Seattle.  The exhibit is solid, but these are difficult times for the aerospace giant.  The Starliner is a colossal bust, and as we hit the post button the machinist union literally is counting the votes that will determine if a strike starts at midnight tonight.

Our plan had been to leave Tacoma and visit Olympia as soon as Dana returned from her girls’ trip to Napa last Sunday.  The plan didn’t include her testing positive for Covid, quarantining in Phoenix, and leaving Doug and Sammy to care for themselves.  But that’s what happened.

The obvious question is why this post is so lame if Dana is laid up in quarantine and Doug is killing time waiting in Tacoma.  Easy.  As August led into September, pigskins filled the air on campuses across the country.  Football time is the best time.*  Football season requires hours of reading about the upcoming weekend, hours watching games, and hours reading about the games that just took place.  Not a lot of spare time.

Tomorrow things take a nice turn when Brad and Kate arrive from Wyoming.  Wooo!  Dana will meet everybody in Poulsbo on Monday.  Wooo!

——————

* Thanks to the abomination that is realignment, for the first time in history Doug’s Volunteers and Dana’s Longhorns are competing in the same conference.  This theoretically could cause familial discord, but fortunately only one of us has an unhealthy emotional obsession with the performance of college kids.

Reunited, and it feels so good, or Uff da

The most important thing is that Brad and Kate arrived for a few days of zany frivolity.  Actually the most important thing is that Dana survived her bout with Covid and returned to the boat in Poulsbo, but the Brad and Kate thing was the first most important thing.  They jumped aboard in Tacoma and we zipped over to Gig Harbor to get things started.

It’s hard to play games without Dana—Sammy lacking opposable thumbs and all—so the rest of us walked over to the Harbor History Museum.

Very neat little place.  The main topic seemed to be the Tacoma Narrows Bridge collapse, which we’ve previously referenced and which might be the biggest thing to ever happen in the area.  Here’s some twisted steel from that day in 1940 when “Galloping Gertie” drew her last breath.  Uff da.

Plenty of other historical stuff in there as well, generally starting with the dawn of civilization—meaning when early pioneers ran off the natives—continuing through the age of fishing, and up to the current tourism.

Those early pioneers had to entertain themselves, and what better way than the old “round rock” competition?  Seriously, they gave prizes for the “roundest rock.”  Uff da.

In 1925, Gig Harbor shipbuilders put together Shenandoah, a trawler destined to work in Alaska and the San Juans.  She’s now being restored to former glory at the museum.

Here’s the Midway Schoolhouse, built in 1893 at a cost of $135.

They’ve faithfully included all of the furniture and equipment that predated the school’s closure in 1941, right down to the color monitor showing interviews with some of the former pupils.

Then up to Poulsbo, past Naval Underwater War Center Division Kitsap.  More on that later.  Nothing too interesting from the water.

As we’ve previously noted, Poulsbo claims a rich Norwegian heritage.  Unlike, say Leavenworth and its bogus Bavarian shtick, Poulsbo is legit.  The giant Norseman (photo credit to Kate Mead) and the “Velkommen til Poulsbo” signs prove it.

Also, if Poulsbo wasn’t a true Scandinavian town, would we be able to keep making visitors put on Viking helmets with horns?

We started off at the end of F Dock but the marina was remodeling and made us move to the breakwater, where our old seal friends from Poulsbo were hanging out.

If we hadn’t moved we’d also have missed out on Virgil, which may be the smallest trawler we’ve ever seen.

Now back to NUWC, which is home to the Naval Undersea Museum.  The submarine sail on the left came from the fast-attack submarine USS Sturgeon, and was specially reinforced so it could be used as an ice breaker.  Which is way cooler than those dumb games where strangers in a group have to tell each other their favorite food and most embarrassing item of clothing.

Now this is one awesome museum.  Torpedo development through the years, submarine command centers, and the workings of Trident MIRV warheads are just a few of the awesome exhibits.

Uff da indeed.

Anyway, Poulsbo never fails.  It’s extra fun when Dana returns and can walk Sammy on empty streets under a full moon.

After Poulsbo we headed down to Port Orchard.  Not because there’s another cornhole tournament, but because Brad and Kate wanted to see the aircraft carrier.  Passing Puget Sound Naval Shipyard we spotted not one, not two, but at least SIX of our twenty-four Los Angeles-class nuclear attack submarines.  Crazy.  We could identify USS Jacksonville, USS Pittsburgh, and USS Oklahoma (and the recently decommissioned USS Providence), but the others are back there as well.  Combined with the Ohio-class deterrent subs with their Trident nuclear warheads over on the Hood Canal, there’s enough firepower within ten miles of Bremerton to destroy the entire world.  Uff da.

Our old seal friends from Port Orchard were hanging out when we arrived.  No river otters to be seen, because they’re all being trapped and killed after one dragged a child off a dock last week.  True story.

Did we mention how much we enjoy spending time with Brad and Kate?  Great folk, those two.

With Dana back aboard finally we were able to ramp up the competition a bit.  Although we easily handled Brad and Kate in Code Names and Kate waxed all of us in Paper Cuts, we don’t consider Brad a loser.  No losers on our boat.

Sadly, yesterday we dropped the Meads off in Des Moines.  We intended to get a photo of them before they left the boat, but we forgot.  Then we intended to get a photo of them while they were waiting for their Uber after a delicious last lunch at Wally’s Chowderhouse, but we forgot.  Then they left, and we cruised up to Bainbridge Island.

Bainbridge Island is both an island and a town.  And what looks to be a secret ferry burial ground.

The main commercial district is about what we expected.  Full of cute shops and restaurants and such.  Heck, there’s even a Dana’s.

There’s some unexpected interesting stuff around here too.  For example, our Uber guy stopped us by a labyrinth “that uses color, symbols, patterns, and numerology in the design created from stones found on Bainbridge Island beaches.”  We didn’t have time for the “reflection” and “meditation” promised by the designer, but here it is anyway.

As we referenced back at the Nakashima Barn, after the attack on Pearl Harbor FDR wasn’t shy about rounding up and imprisoning Americans of Japanese descent.  On March 30, 1942, soldiers marched 227 of them down a path, off a dock, and onto ships, all at gunpoint.  Probably not our finest hour as a country.

The path they marched is pretty, and pretty sobering.

But who are we kidding here?  The main point of Bainbridge Island is the Stover residence, located 3743 Pleasant Beach Drive.

Because the Stovers now own the property where—in 1965—three dads cobbled together a game using a whiffle ball, ping pong paddles, and a badminton court.  Yup, pickleball was invented right there on Pleasant Beach Drive.  The original court they used still is there, although they’ve obviously upgraded the net.  Now this, this is awesome.

Tomorrow we start the last leg of the summer.  We’re excited to welcome Tom and Deb to share it with us.  Wooo!

 

The weather turned and we’re cold, so that’s it for cruising this year

A few days ago the Seattle Times literally announced that this past Wednesday would be the last pretty day UNTIL NEXT SPRING!  Nothing drives us off the boat faster than the threat of only cold and rain as far as these things can be predicted.  So tonight we’re in Twin Falls, Idaho.  Halfway home.  Time to catch up with the final blog post until we start Tumbleweed’s Great Alaska Expedition next May.

When we last posted, we were on Bainbridge Island.  Remember that cool photo of the original pickleball court?  But we couldn’t stay on Bainbridge Island forever, because (1) there’s no place on the island to store Tumbleweed, and (2) Tom and Deb were meeting us in Des Moines.  Wooo!  Nothing but gloom along the way.  Booo!

But as the great Jim Croce observed, sometimes skies are cloudy, and sometimes skies are blue.  Just like that the clouds disappeared.  Ok technically not all the clouds disappeared, but the gray ones did.

Which is a good thing because we promised our guests clear warm skies and loads of fun.  They rolled in right on time, which allowed for a nice walk through the woods to the water treatment plant and back.

We even treated them to a decent sunset.

As previously noted, Tom is Danish and Deb is Finnish and since all of those Scandinavian countries basically are the same we figured they’d enjoy Poulsbo.  On previous trips up we’d noticed the charted “Deperming Ranges,” but we figured they probably had something to do with curly hair and wouldn’t affect us.  Plus we were too lazy to research them.  This time we made time.  Turns out these ranges are where Naval Base Kitsap demagnetizes submarines to hide them from magnetic detection sensors and magnetic mines.  Which means it would make much more sense to call them “Demagnetizing Ranges,” but whatever.  We passed through them unfazed.

Obviously the first order of business in Poulsbo was the now-traditional photo of visitors in silly Viking helmets.

And also the now-traditional stop for goodies from Sluy’s.

On our hike around town we passed a nice looking lady offering a price break on tarot readings and Reiki.  Shockingly to the two of us who returned to the boat to watch football, the other two of us stopped and patronized the joint.  Except for the fact that he recently died, the Amazing Randi—one of Doug’s heroes—would be disgusted.  RIP Randi.

The band at the pavilion played the kind of music Tom and Deb like and not the kind we like, but the ice cream made it tolerable.

Ok, this is new.  Insane Clown Posse?  Little Orphan Annie convention?  Five women who lost the same bet?

Poulsbo is where that cute lil seal popped up by the kayak.  This probably isn’t the same one, but we can’t be sure.

On the way down to Gig Harbor, Rainier showed us a new face, this one with a familiar comb-over.   The UFO cloud was an added bonus.

Speaking of seals, this one welcomed us back to Arabella’s.

Kind of a quick stop in Gig Harbor, but time enough to spot a couple of new things.  Black Dog!  Maybe someday Black Dog Bikinis will have a corporate sailboat.

How cool would it be to be The Finest Citizen?  According to the plaque, Lee Makovich had six kids, was a big deal in the fishing world, and was a school board member.  The first of those simply suggests virility.  The latter two might make him a fine citizen, but the finest?  Seems more likely that one of those six kids wound up on the plaque committee.

We’d planned for a leisurely breakfast, a leisurely cruise over to Des Moines, and the traditional leisurely lunch at Wally’s before Tom and Deb caught their flight back to Scottsdale.  But then we got up and looked at the weather.  Exactly two days of decency before the wind and rain arrived.  Sorry Tim and Deb.  If we’re going to get to Anacortes in two days, no time to dilly dally.

Another face of Rainier, this time without the silly hairpiece.

Basically we stopped at Des Moines just barely long enough to push Tom and Deb onto the dock.  No Wally’s.  As always, we greatly enjoyed their company.  We won’t publish all of the meaningful results, but Deb won the practice game.

Fortunately the wind and waves cooperated after we left Des Moines and headed north.

Unfortunately, we had another eight hours.  The sun was setting by the time we turn in by the giant white pumpkin.

Actually, that’s not a giant white pumpkin at all.  It’s a Navy something or other.  This entire part of Whidbey Island is one huge Naval base, which we learned when the nice guy on the boat next to us rushed out to tell Doug to bring the drone back asap.  The dude was on the team that designed the Navy’s automated drone capture system—which detects and seizes even innocent drones like ours—and he knew ours was just a few feet below becoming a goner.  Only Doug’s judicious use of an altitude ceiling prevented a third and final drone disaster.

Whoever named these floating port-o-potties deserves a raise.

Right outside Oak Harbor Marina stands a statue honoring all the topless women anxiously waiting for their fishermen husbands to return from sea.

Anyway, Oak Harbor is a cute enough town, although the only oaks we saw were on the mural.

The next morning was foggy enough to be dangerous, but not quite so foggy as to make us regret having previously used up all our fog puns.  The fog hovered well below the top of Mt. Baker, which looked cool enough but wouldn’t have been much help if an inattentive fisherman speeding back to his topless woman crashed into us.

The fog cleared well before we reached Anacortes, however, which allowed us to enjoy the start of fall.  Also, the women waiting for their men in Anacortes are either more modest or less fun than their Oak Harbor counterparts.

And there, the enjoyable part of the summer ended.  Rain and cold all the way to Pleasant Harbor to retrieve the truck and rain and cold most of the way back, although the clouds sort of parted just long enough for a photo of Deception Pass from the bridge and a rainbow from the road.

More rain and wind and cold while we organized and packed and loaded, barely leaving us a window for hotdogs.

The summer started in Blaine and ended in Anacortes, with lots of cool stuff along the way.  Pacific Northwest cruising is nothing like East Coast cruising.  No rivers.  No locks.  Very few bridges.  Deep water.  Beautiful scenery.  Fun times with friends and family.  Not better or worse, but different.

Here’s the final leg.

The last note relates to the haul out.  This was new.  Basically you drive up on a trailer just like we did with ski boats.  In Tumbleweed it’s terrifying, but we made it.

Happy Halloween, Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year.  We’ll be back in seven months.